How to Train Pitbull Puppies to Be Guard Dogs

The appearance and maligned reputation of an American Pit Bull Terrier is an advantage to any successful Pit Bull guard dog. A guard dog is a dog that is trained to attack or restrain an intruder in order to protect their family and home. Contrary to popular belief there is some controversy over whether Pit Bulls make good guard dogs. Some say that Pit Bulls are not successful guard dogs. According to Pit Bull Rescue San Diego, Pit Bulls love humans and as a result they will treat strangers as friends and not as a threat; however, Dog Breed Info Center claims that Pit Bulls make good guard dogs and they have been successful at guarding their owners property. None the less it's important to understand that with adequate training any dog can be trained to become a guard dog, even a Pit Bull puppy.

Background on Dog Fighting

At the Beginning...

Dogfighting has been around since the 1800's in some form, and maybe even earlier. But why?

The development of modern dogfighting that is found in Europe and North and South America can be clearly traced to 1835, when "bull-baiting" was banned in England. When the ban was created, the owners of "bulldogs”, which had been used to bait bulls, bears and other animals, began to pit dog against dog. The largest, heaviest bull dogs were soon crossed with smaller, quicker terriers to make the "bull terriers" who became the common breed today - pit bulls.

All Dogs?

Not just any dog can be trained to fight. Many dogs are born with a temper, but most fights between two dogs, like in the park, usually end quickly, with one backing down.

To breed successful fighting dogs, that willingness to back down had to be eliminated. Fighting dogs continue to attack, regardless of the submission signals of an opponent. Similarly, these dogs will continue to fight even though badly injured. Gameness—a dog's willingness or desire to fight—is the most admired trait in fighting dogs.

Who's Involved?

Most law enforcement experts divide dogfight activity into three categories: street fighting, hobbyist fighting and professional activity:

Street fighters engage in dog fights that are informal, street corner, back alley and playground activities. Stripped of the rules and formality of the traditional pit fight, these are spontaneous events triggered by insults, turf invasions or the simple taunt, "My dog can kill yours." Many of these participants lack even a semblance of respect for the animals they fight, forcing them to train while wearing heavy chains to build stamina, and picking street fights in which they could get seriously hurt. Many of the dogs are bred to be a threat not only to other dogs, but to people as well - with tragic consequences.
Street fights are frequently associated with gang activities. The fights may be conducted with money, drugs or bragging rights as the primary payoff. There is often no attempt to care for animals injured in the fight and police or animal control officers frequently encounter dead or dying animals in the aftermath of such fights. This activity is very difficult to respond to unless it is reported immediately. Professional fighters and hobbyists decry the techniques and results of these newcomers to the "blood sport."

Hobbyist fighters are more organized, with one or more dogs participating in several organized fights a year as a sideline for both "entertainment" and to attempt to supplement income. They pay more attention to care and breeding of the dogs and are more likely to be traveling across state lines for events.

Professional dog fighters often have large numbers of animals (often 50 or more) and earn money from breeding, selling and fighting dogs at a central location and on the road. They often pay particular attention to promoting established winning bloodlines and to long-term conditioning of animals. They regularly dispose of animals that are not successful fighters or breeders using a variety of methods, including shooting and blunt force trauma. Unlike professional dog fighters of the past, both professionals and hobbyists of today may dispose of dogs that are too human-aggressive for the pit by selling them to street fighters or others who are simply looking for an aggressive dog - thus contributing to the dog bite problem.
In recent years, a fourth category of dog fighters seems to be emerging, with some wealthier individuals from the sports and entertainment worlds allegedly using their financial resources to promote "professional" dog fighting enterprises, which essentially use the philosophy and training techniques usually associated with street fighting.

Why Do People Get Involved?

For a lot of people, it's about ego - breeding fighting dogs makes them feel tough. Some fighters liken dog fighting to boxing, and see the owner as coach and the dog as prize fighter.

While some might typify dog fighting as a symptom of urban decay, not every dog fighter is poor. There are people who promote or participate in dog fighting from every community and background. Licensed vets are often well paid to provide care for dogs at fights. Audiences contain lawyers, judges and teachers drawn in by the excitement and thrill. To them, dog fighting is not brutal, it is an art.

What’s Up With Dog Fighting Now?

Beyond the "traditional" fighting, now, more commonly, dog fights are informal street corner activities. These are spontaneous events triggered by insults, turf invasions or the simple taunt, "My dog can kill yours." Many of these participants lack any respect for the animals, forcing them to train wearing heavy chains to build stamina and picking street fights in which they could get seriously hurt. And many of the dogs are bred to be a threat not only to other dogs, but to people as well—with tragic consequences.

Humane societies and law enforcement officials have been fighting long and hard to put an end to dog fighting, but even after raids, arrests and jail time, people who fight are back in the ring. To get rid of dogfighting, experts in gangs, drug abuse, poverty, education and psychology, as well as law enforcement, are needed to understand and combat dog fighting at each level. Preventing today's youthful spectators from becoming tomorrow's dog fighters is the challenge the humane community faces for the future.

What is it About Pit Bulls?

Pit Bull. Two simple words, but so very charged, the reaction to which varies wildly. There are their fearful detractors, those who would have them demonized, having fallen prey to the dogs’ misrepresentation in the media. And then there are their champions, who are struggling to change the tide of public opinion. “Pit Bull” is, in fact, a loose term for many distinct “bully” breed dogs, such as the American Staffordshire Terrier, the American Pit Bull Terrier, and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. There is a general misunderstanding of the nature of dogs that fall into the Pit Bull camp, one that can be blamed largely on the sad fact that any aggressive attack is often inaccurately blamed on the scapegoated Pit Bull with little concern as to the offender’s actual breed. According to testing by The National Canine Temperament Testing Association, the Golden Retriever, Poodle, Border Collie, English Setter, and numerous other breeds are considered more likely to become aggressive than the breeds commonly referred to as Pit Bulls. While the average score of the 231 breeds tested was a mere 82.4 percent, Pit Bulls scored a 86.5 percent (the higher the score the better).

In truth, bully breeds are goofy, loyal, lovey dogs, by and large fantastic with children. In the UK, they were known as “nanny” dogs, and many Victorian illustrations of family life portray a sweet Pit Bull-type dog overseeing his chubby, beribboned charges.

Yes, this personable package comes wrapped in a powerhouse of a body, one that historically was bred for the cruel blood sport of dog fighting, but these dogs are anything but mean by nature. Sure, some, if left unchecked, have more of a tendency toward dog-aggression than, say, the average affable Labrador Retriever does, but if ever there was a testament to the underlying sweet nature of these dogs, it is seen in the rehabilitation stories of the Pit Bulls seized from Bad Newz Kennels, the Virginia dogfighting ring that was run by NFL quarterback Michael Vick.

Subject to some of the worst humanity has to offer, these were dogs that were caged or chained alone in the woods, tortured, and forced to fight, the torn-apart losers of the battles callously dumped in mass graves, the females tethered to rape tables. And yet, thanks to public outcry and an unprecedented ruling by the judge overseeing the Vick case, nearly $1 million was put aside for the rescue and rehabilitation of these dogs. With the help of a great many caring individuals and organizations who were unwilling to see them put down after having suffered only abuse at the hands of humans, these former dog-ring fighters have now been adopted into homes with other dogs, and are volunteering in elder-care facilities and schools to help children learn to read.

Hector, one of the Bad Newz victims, bears deep scars on his chest. He was adopted by Roo Yori, best known as the guardian of Wallace the Pit Bill, a national flying-disc champ (see the Summer 2010 issue of Modern Dog for photos of Wallace and his high-flying Frisbee grabs). Hector is now ensconced in the Yori household, where he happily shares a home with Yori, his wife, Clara, and Wallace, as well as a Rat Terrier named Scooby, Angus, a black Lab mix, and Mindy Lou, a toy Australian Shepherd. What better testament to the forgiving nature of these animals? As Jim Gorant, author of The Lost Dogs: Michael Vick’s Dogs and Their Tale of Rescue and Redemption (Gotham, 2010) has noted, “Generalizations and preconceptions are as unhelpful and counterproductive for Pit Bulls as they are for people.”

There is much work to do, though, to change public opinion. Many, many dogs falling into the Pit Bull camp, lumped together under this one inaccurate label, are crowding shelters, their numbers vast, the available homes few. Moved by the plight of these dogs, Brooklyn-based photographer Bethany Obrecht turned her lens to some of these animals, who hopefully faced her camera.

Sadly, most of the dogs Obrecht photographed didn’t make it, victims of an overburdened shelter system and an uninformed public. We’re hoping we can change that with a positive public relations campaign taking aim at their misrepresentation and drawing attention to the plight of legion Pit Bull-type dogs in desperate need of a home. Adopt a sweet, goofy, grinning Pit Bull today. We’re willing to bet you won’t regret it.

The truth about rottweiler tails

There is plenty of inaccurate information circulating on the internet about Rottweilers with natural tails, much of it written by people that have only owned docked Rottweilers and would NEVER consider owning a Rottweiler with a natural tail. I stopped docking in 1999 and I have owned only Rottweilers with natural tails for the past 10 years, almost immediately after the law change in Germany. I have been to countless shows with an abundant number of tailed Rottweilers, including the Klubsieger Show in Germany and the IFR World Show (where tails are the norm) and have seen the varieties of different tail carriages and sets.
There was an article on the internet that appeared when the FCI Breed Standard was first changed that describes the disastrous effect the natural tail would have on our breed. The article describes tail sets that don't exist in quality breedings any more than they existed prior to the standard change and depicts structure changes that would be necessary for a tailed dog that simply aren't true.
This photo is from an article on a anti-natural tail website depicting the Rottweiler that "we recognize"

This drawing describes a tail set as seen in Sweden

This tail only belongs on an Akita! 

This photo describes the tail as an elongation of the topline.

A Rottweiler's natural tail is carried hanging while at rest, and often over the back when excited. It normally has a slight curve. A Rottweiler does not hold it's tail in a stiff position sticking straight out from the body, but it can be captured appearing to stick straight out by a camera, with the picture taken at exactly the right moment, as the tail wags back an forth

Some additional reasons the against natural tails:

"To add a long, heavy tail to the structure described in the standards would change the center of gravity, moving it towards the rear of the dog..."

"...would lessen the Rottweiler's ability as an endurance trotter, unless the croup we desire today changes."

"...the Rottweiler's presently desired croup and tail set would have to change to accommodate an undocked tail."

"I also would expect to see the undocked Rottweiler change proportion, too, and become a longer dog." 

The author would have us believe that a natural tailed Rottweiler might look like this

The truth is, this Rottweiler has a falling croup, and was born with a falling croup with or without a tail!

Does this croup somehow become more correct without the tail?

The structure is already determined at birth, the genetics for the croup and tail set were already set in place before the puppy arrived in this world. The puppy was born with a tail and the croup remains the same whether left natural or docked by the breeder.

Using the author's own drawing, it is easy to see how correct structure remains unchanged, with or without a tail

The authors depiction of a docked Rottweiler with correct structure

The author's tail taken from the tailed dog with a falling croup

There you have it. A dog with a tail, with the same structure as the dog without the tail.

The tail structure can be faulty and the breed standard clearly describes a faulty tail as "kink tail, ring-tail, with strong lateral deviation"

Ring tail without lateral deviation

Ring tail with lateral deviation

Kinked tail

We successfully finished one of the first tailed dogs in Canada - where they allow both docked and tailed dogs in the show ring (CanCh USRC NYS'04 SWRYS'03&'04 NCRSA'04 SWRSA'05 Redwood Krest's Friday CS BH). Now there are MANY finished Canadian Champions! Both AKC and CKC judges have put up quality dogs, Friday received a 5 point major in Canada under a well known, highly regarded AKC judge. When I approached him after the show and told him "Thank you for finding my dog with the tail." he simply replied "What's not to find, he is a beautiful, correct Rottweiler and the tail doesn't make a bit of difference." Hmmm, Apparently the judges are still able to assess a dog's structure with a natural tail.

...tail selection will suddenly move from no consideration at all to major consideration in the selection of breeding stock"

We have had many litters with natural tails and have found no need to change our breeding program to accommodate some imaginary problem with the tails or structure. Despite the fact that they were previously removed, the tails still knew what they were supposed to be if left intact. Ring tails and kinked tails do occur - in some bloodlines more than others - however they have no impact on the health of the dog, they are a simple cosmetic fault.

"...a long tail would probably become injured by beating it against the wall, the table, etc."

A Rottweiler is no more prone to tail injuries than any other natural tailed dog. Would it be logical to argue that all dogs breeds should be docked to protect against tail injury? Tail sprains and injuries happen to all natural tail breeds but this has never been used as a reasonable argument to support docking of all dog breeds.

Docked or natural in the U.S. is purely personal preference. The presence of a tail has not, and will not change the structure of the breed, it is the breeders that change the structure of the breed. In the United States of America, ALL Rottweiler fanciers should striving for the same thing...

AMERICAN PIT BULL TERRIER

The goals and purposes of this breed standard include: to furnish guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain the quality of their breed and to improve it; to advance this breed to a state of similarity throughout the world; and to act as a guide for judges.

Breeders and judges have the responsibility to avoid any conditions or exaggerations that are detrimental to the health, welfare, essence and soundness of this breed, and must take the responsibility to see that these are not perpetuated.

The American Pit Bull Terrier has a long history of being a physically active, muscular, very agile breed, and has maintained breed type for over 150 years. Any departure from the following should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog’s ability to perform its traditional work.
Quality is never to be sacrificed in favor of size. Characteristics that very clearly indicate crossing with other breeds are not to be tolerated.

UKC is unwilling to condone the validity of using exaggerated specimens of this breed in a breeding program and, to preserve its health and vibrancy, cautions judges about awarding wins to these representatives.

HISTORY

Sometime during the nineteenth century, dog fanciers in England, Ireland and Scotland began to experiment with crosses between Bulldogs and Terriers, looking for a dog that combined the gameness of the terrier with the strength and athleticism of the Bulldog. The result was a dog that embodied all of the virtues attributed to great warriors: strength, indomitable courage, and gentleness with loved ones. Immigrants brought these bull-and-terrier crosses to the United States. The American Pit Bull Terrier’s many talents did not go unnoticed by farmers and ranchers who used their APBTs as catch dogs for semi-wild cattle and hogs, to hunt, to drive livestock, and as family companions. Today, the American Pit Bull Terrier continues to demonstrate its versatility, competing successfully in Obedience, Rally Obedience, Tracking, Agility, Lure Coursing, Dock Jumping and Weight Pulls, as well as Conformation.

Rottweiler Training And The Facts You Need To Know

The Rottweiler is a very special dog breed who has many incredible characteristics and personality traits. However these very same wonderful characteristics are what can get you into some decent trouble down the road if you don't undergo proper Rottweiler training. Before you start training you're Rottweiler, you have to understand their specific traits and personality, so that you can properly stimulate them.

- The Rottweiler is a very loyal dog that needs to always be close to their family. Like most German breeds, they seem to become closer to one particular member within the family more then others. The individual who becomes closest (the "master") to their Rottweiler should be the one that is engaged in training most heavily.

- Because the Rottweiler is so loyal and family oriented, it is always very eager to please its owner/s. This makes Rottweiler training far easier then many other breeds, and the owner can take advantage of this trait and increase the success rate of the training.

- The Rottweiler is a breed that can be very aggressive and dominate if it does not undergo proper Rottweiler training. Rottweiler's by nature are dominate dogs and need to be put in place (never by force) by a dominate and assertive owner. This breed is not recommended for timid individuals.

- The Rottweiler is very protective of its family and home, and it's because of this trait that if not trained properly it can become far too protective, aggressive and wary of any people other then family in its home or even on walks. It is very important that this breed be properly socialized at a young age and it taken out into public settings often. It should also be mentioned that if you don't usually have guests in your home and socialize your Rottweiler among them, they may be okay with outside the home, but within it.

Like any other breed of dog the Rottweiler needs to undergo specific Rottweiler training to ensure that it grows up to be a great family pet and well mannered dog. Too often throughout my career as a trainer and breeder have I seen many people try to train their Rottweiler's like their Labs, and of course pay the price in the long run. Make sure that you are armed with the proper knowledge and resources to make sure that this doesn't happen to you during you're Rottweiler training.

HEALTH Rottweiler

HIP AND ELBOW DYSPLASIA

Hip dysplasia is a skeletal defect in dogs. In hip dysplasia, the ball portion (femoral head) of the hip is not securely seated in the socket portion (acetabulum). This condition is especially common in working and sporting breeds of dogs. Certain breeds are definitely predisposed.

Normal Dysplasia

Hip dysplasia is an inherited problem which is not usually present at birth. It develops within the first 6-8 months of life. The exact cause is unknown, but it is generally accepted that the condition is from the combined action of an unknown number of genes. Nutrition and environment are also believed to be contributing factors.

Concerned dog breeders and veterinarians have tried to reduce the incidence of hip dysplasia through selective breeding. X-rays has been performed on potential breeding pairs in an effort to determine the status of the hip joints. Some progress has been made toward reducing the severity and incidence of canine hip dysplasia, but progress has been slow.

Hip dysplasia is defined as a biomechanical disease. That is, the muscles do not develop and reach maturity at the same rate as the bones. Since the hip depends on muscle power to be stable, it can pull apart and trigger a series of events resulting in hip dysplasia.

If a pup is so poorly developed that it cannot walk, then the demands of the musculoskeletal support system are greater than the strength of the surrounding musculature. The muscles and ligaments are unable to maintain the needed relationship between the femoral head and the acetabulum.

This results in a partial or incomplete dislocation of the femoral head. The acetabulum is unable to develop properly if the femoral head is dislocated, and is shallower than normal when the pup reaches maturity. When the femoral head is dislocated, its cartilage covering is subjected to wear and tear. This eventually leads to a miss-shaped femoral head , and osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease.

The degree of hip dysplasia (mild, moderate, or severe) does not effect the signs exhibited by the affected dog. Signs may range from no symptoms to a pronounced disability. Symptoms can appear any time after 4 weeks of age, but are generally not detected, except in severe cases, until after 6 months of age.

CLINICAL SIGNS OF CANINE HIP DYSPLASIA INCLUDE:

• Lameness after prolonged exercise
• A waddling or swaying gait
• Morning stiffness
• Difficulty in standing up
• Reluctance to move
• Change in temperament
• Pain when moving the hip joints
• Limping
(These signs often appear worse on cold damp days)

Early clinical signs are caused by the stretching and tearing of the joint. This pain may disappear as scar tissue forms, and the puppy seems to get better. Unfortunately arthritis continues to get worse and eventually signs of pain appear again. Early treatment will slow or stop the development of arthritis.

The diagnosis of canine hip dysplasia is bases upon: history, symptoms, a complete physical exam, and X-rays. X-rays are necessary to confirm hip dysplasia. They can show:

• the shape and depth of the acetabulum
• the shape contour and position of the femoral head
• degenerative joint disease

TREATMENT

Hip dysplasia can be treated surgically, medically, or a combination of both. There is no cure for hip dysplasia, but with appropriate veterinary care affected dogs can live long, healthy, active lives. Non-surgical treatment can include:

• enforced cage rest when the dog is experiencing discomfort
• mild analgesics
• anti-inflammatory drugs

There are several surgical procedures that can be attempted in young dogs, and if the disease is not severe:

• Cutting of the femur and/or the pelvis and repositioning the joint. This is recommended for dogs 6-12 months of age only.
• Cutting the pectineus muscle. This is useful in relieving pain in certain cases, but has no effect upon the progression of the disease.
• Removal of the femoral head and neck. and formation of a "false joint" between the proximal femur and the pelvic musculature. Small and medium sized dogs usually do better with this procedure than larger dogs.
• Total hip replacement. Although this procedure is expensive, many dogs are able to return to full activity.

Rottweiler Training

01. Heel (On lead, with a loose lead)	The trainers do evaluate the
02. Sit (Using food)	performance of the individual
03. Down (Using food)	puppies, but in Puppy Class no
04. Stand (Using food)	points are awarded for the
05. Sit stay (15 seconds)	exercises, as the emphasis is
06. Down stay (30 seconds)	on socialisation and having fun,
07. Play with toy (Play with toy and return toy to handler)	whilst experiencing new things.
08. Send away (3 metres, open bowl)
09. Obstacle course (To measure confidence)
10. Change handlers (To measure confidence)
11. Examination (Eyes, ears, teeth, paws, hind-quarters)
12. Fun recall (Out of sight)

Personality

The ideal Rottweiler is calm, confident, and courageous, never shy. He has a self-assured aloofness and doesn't make friends with people immediately or indiscriminately. Instead, he takes a wait-and-see attitude with new people or situations. With his family, he's affectionate, often following them around the house. This is not a highly excitable dog. He has an inherent desire to protect his family and property, but should never be aggressive toward people without cause. The Rottweiler is smart and adaptable with a strong work ethic.

You'll see some differences between the sexes. Males are quiet but watchful, constantly assessing their surroundings for threats. Females are somewhat easier to control and may be more affectionate. Both are highly trainable but can be stubborn.

Rottweilers require firm, consistent but not harsh discipline. A sharp word is often a sufficient reprimand, but only if you've clearly established your leadership. If not, he may try to bully or bluff you. This is not a dog for people who lack assertiveness or don't have time to devote to training and supervision. Earning a Rottweiler's respect involves setting boundaries and teaching consequences for inappropriate behavior, both of which take time and patience.

Temperament is affected by a number of factors, including heredity, training, and socialization. Puppies with nice temperaments are curious and playful, willing to approach people and be held by them. Choose the middle-of-the-road puppy, not the one who's beating up his littermates or the one who's hiding in the corner. Always meet at least one of the parents — usually the mother is the one who's available — to ensure that they have nice temperaments that you're comfortable with. Meeting siblings or other relatives of the parents is also helpful for evaluating what a puppy will be like when he grows up.

Like every dog, Rotties need early socialization — exposure to many different people, sights, sounds, and experiences — when they're young. Socialization helps ensure that your Rottweiler puppy grows up to be a well-rounded dog. Enrolling him in a puppy kindergarten class is a great start. Inviting visitors over regularly, and taking him to busy parks, stores that allow dogs, and on leisurely strolls to meet neighbors will also help him polish his social skills.

Rottweiler Feeding

Recommended daily amount: 4 to 10 cups of high-quality dry food a day, divided into two meals.

Note: How much your adult dog eats depends on his size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level. Dogs are individuals, just like people, and they don't all need the same amount of food. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. The quality of dog food you buy also makes a difference — the better the dog food, the further it will go toward nourishing your dog and the less of it you'll need to shake into your dog's bowl.

Keep your Rottweiler in good shape by measuring his food and feeding him twice a day rather than leaving food out all the time. If you're unsure whether he's overweight, give him the eye test and the hands-on test. First, look down at him. You should be able to see a waist. Then place your hands on his back, thumbs along the spine, with the fingers spread downward. You should be able to feel but not see his ribs without having to press hard. If you can't, he needs less food and more exercise.

Children and other pets

Rottweilers typically like children, especially if they're raised with them. When around children, especially young ones, they should be supervised because they are so big and strong. Because of their cattle-driving heritage, they have a tendency to lean and push and can accidentally topple a toddler with a nudge.

They're probably best suited to homes with older children who understand how to interact with dogs. It's also important to supervise your Rottweiler any time your children have friends over. Rotties can be perturbed by loud or rough play between kids and may take steps to put a stop to it, not understanding that "his" children aren't in danger. They may also chase young children who are running.

Always teach children how to approach and touch dogs, and always supervise any interactions between dogs and young children to prevent any biting or ear or tail pulling on the part of either party. Teach your child never to approach any dog while he's sleeping or eating or to try to take the dog's food away. No dog should ever be left unsupervised with a child.

When Rottweilers are raised with other dogs and cats, they generally get along well with them. They may have issues with strange dogs or adult dogs that are introduced into the home, being intolerant of same-sex dogs. With your training and guidance, however, they should accept new animals peaceably. Keep your Rottie on leash in public to prevent aggression or belligerence toward other dogs. The Rottie is not the best candidate for visiting off-leash dog parks.

About the Red, Red Nosed Written by Richard F. Stratton * Appeared in the January-February, 1975 issue of Bloodlines Journal

No one really knows when these dogs first came to this country, but the great breeder William J. Lightner once told me that his grandfather raised them before the Civil War. It is quite possible that they were even here during the Revolutionary War. In any case, it is clear that dogs of this breed came from various parts of Europe, specifically Spain and Sicily. But little is known about these earliest importations, because nothing was written about them. (Books and periodicals containing information about dogs were rare in those days.) Their existence can be inferred from artwork, however. The most famous importations were from Ireland, and were generally made by the Irish themselves after they emigrated to this country. (The bulk of the Irish pit dog importations coincides or closely follows the great Irish migration that resulted from the famous potato famine.) Most of the Irish dogs were small and very closely inbred, but their gameness was proverbial-especially that of the group of strains that was known as the Old Family. The following article Ion the Old Family Reds (just one segment of the Old Family bloodlines) is reprinted from Bloodlines Journal. The Story of the Old Family Reds Written by Richard F. Stratton This is the American Pitbull Terrier First, an overview. No one really knows when these dogs first came to this country, but the great breeder William J. Lightner once told me that his grandfather raised them before the Civil War. It is quite possible that they were even here during the Revolutionary War. In any case, it is clear that dogs of this breed came from various parts of Europe, specifically Spain and Sicily. But little is known about these earliest importation's, because nothing was written about them. (Books and periodicals containing information about dogs were rare in those days.) Their existence can be inferred from artwork, however. The most famous importation's were from Ireland, and were generally made by the Irish themselves after they emigrated to this country. (The bulk of the Irish pit dog importation's coincides or closely follows the great Irish migration that resulted from the famous potato famine.) Most of the Irish dogs were small and very closely inbred, but their gameness was proverbial especially that of the group of strains that was the "Old Family Reds" (just one segment of the Old Family bloodlines) is reprinted from Bloodlines Journal. It has always seemed to me that the good old Pit Bull is a breed that is at once primitive and futuristic. He looks no more out of place in the ancient landscapes of 16th century paintings than he does in the ultra-modern setting. It is beyond my capabilities to imagine an end to him, for every generation seems to supply a nucleus of hard core devotees completely committed to the breed. In any case, you can look into the murky past, and you will find it difficult to discern a beginning place for the breed, and, fortunately, the future seems to threaten no demise either. Ours is a breed that has a definite mystique. Part of it, no doubt, stems from the fact that it is an old breed and deeply steeped in tradition. Old strains are a particularly fascinating part of this tradition, and the Old Family Red Nose is one of the better known old strains. The appearance of the red-nosed dogs always attracts attention, but it takes a little getting used to for some people to consider them truly beautiful. However, no one denies that they radiate "class." Characteristically, a dog of the red-nosed strain has a copper-red nose, red lips, red toe nails, and red or amber eyes. Some think the strain was bred for looks. Others consider any dog that just happens to have a red nose to be pure Old Family Red Nose. It is hoped that the following will dispel such notions. About the middle of the last century there was a family of pit dogs in Ireland bred and fought chiefly in the counties of Cork and Kerry that were known as the "Old Family." In those days, pedigrees were privately kept and jealously guarded. Purity of the strains was emphasized to the extent that breeders hardly recognized another strain as being the same breed. For that reason all the strains were closely inbred. And whenever you have a closed genetic pool of that type, you are likely to have a slide toward the recessive traits, because the dominants, once discarded, are never recaptured. Since red is recessive to all colors but white, the "Old Family" eventually became the "Old Family Reds." When the dogs began coming to America, many were already beginning to show the red nose. The "Old Family" dogs found their way to America mainly via immigrants. For example, Jim Corcoran came to this country to fight the world heavyweight champion John L. Sullivan, and stayed to become a Boston policeman. He sent for dogs from his parents back in Ireland, and his importation's and expertise as a great breeder have earned him a prominent place in American (Pit) Bull Terrier history. Many other Irish immigrants also sent back to their families to request for dogs, and the "Old Family" and related strains became firmly established in the United States. At this point, there are several factors that are somewhat confusing to a student of the breed. For one thing, the term "family dogs" was used in two ways: It could mean a strain of dogs that was a family unto itself that was kept by a number of unrelated people in Ireland, or it could refer to a strain of dogs that was kept and preserved through the years by a family group. However, the old Family Reds seem to be of the first category. Another point that arises is that with all these importation's from Ireland (and there were importation's from other countries, too including Spain), where do we get off calling our breed the American Bull Terrier! Well...that's a point! The breed does not really belong to any one country or even any one era! However, I don't believe many people are in favor of changing the name of the breed even though it is not strictly an American breed. For that matter, it is not really a Bull Terrier, either! But the name American (Pit) Bull Terrier has become part of that tradition we were talking about, and I think most of us prefer to keep it as a formal name for the breed. Back to the Old Family Reds. The first big splash made by the red noses was back around 1900 when the great breeder William J. Lightner, utilizing Old Family Red bloodlines, came up with some red-nosed dogs that really made a name for themselves. Now Llightner once told me that he did not breed for that red-nosed coloration. In fact, he did not even like it and he only put up with it because the individual dogs were of such high quality. Eventually Lightner gave up the red-nosed strain when he moved from Louisiana to Colorado, where he came up with a new strain that consisted of small dark-colored dogs with black noses. He had given up on the other strain because they were running too big for his taste and because he didn't like the red noses. At this point in our story we come upon a comical, but highly respected, figure in the personage of Dan McCoy. I have heard old-time dog men from all over the country talk about this man. Apparently, he was an itinerant fry cook and not much of a success in life judged by normal standards, but he didn't care about that. What he did care about were Pit Bulldogs, and he had a wealth of knowledge about the breed. His uncanny ability to make breedings that "clicked" made him a respected breeding consultant and a most welcome guest at any dog man's house even if he had just dropped off a freight train! Always with his ear to the ground regarding anything that involved APBT's, McCoy got wind of the fact that an old Frenchman in Louisiana by the name of Bourgeous had preserved the old Lightner red-nosed strain. So he and Bob Hemphill went to that area, and with the aid of Gaboon Trahan of Lafayette, they secured what was left of the dogs. McCoy took his share to the Panhandle of Texas and placed them with his associates L.C. Owens, Arthur Harvey and Buck Moon. He then played a principal role in directing the breedings that were made by these fanciers. And from this enclave came such celebrated dogs as Harvey's Red Devil and Owens (Fergusons) Centipede. Hemphill eventually kept only dogs of the re-nosed strain. According to Hemphill, it was McCoy who first started using the term "Old Family Red Nose" for the strain. Another breeder who was almost synonymous with the red-nosed strain was Bob Wallace. However, Bob's basic bloodline was not pure Old Family Red Nose. But in the late 40's he was looking for the red-nosed strain in order to make an "out cross." (Bob was a scrupulously careful breeder who planned his breedings years in advance.) Unfortunately, he found that the strain was nearly gone, most of it having been ruined by careless breedings. He managed to obtain seven pure red-noses of high quality whose pedigrees he could authenticate. The strain subsequently saved for posterity and in the 1950's became the fashionable strain in Pit Bull circles. In fact, it was Bob Wallace himself who wrote an article in 1953 called "There Is No Magic in Red Noses" in which he tried to put a damper on the overly enthusiastic claims being made by some of the admirers of the strain. No more fervent admirer of the Old Family Reds ever lived than Wallace, but he obviously felt that the strain could stand on its own merits. Many strains have been crossed with the Old Family Reds at some time in their existence. Consequently, nearly any strain will occasionally throw a red-nosed pup. To many fanciers, these red-nosed individuals are Old Family Red Noses even though the great preponderance of their blood is that of other strains. Sometimes such individuals will fail to measure up and thereby reflect undeserved discredit on the red-nosed strain. However, as Wallace said, the red noses should not be considered invincible either. They produce their share of bad ones as well as good ones just as all strains do. As a strain, the Old Family Red Nose has several things going for it. First, it is renowned for its gameness. Second, some of the most reputable breeders in all Pit Bull history have contributed to the preservation and development of the strain. People like Lightner, McClintock, Menefee and Wallace, to mention just a few. "Regardless of one's historical perspective, these old amber eyed, rednosed, red-toe-nailed, red coated dogs represent some of the most significant pit bull history and tradition that stands on four legs today." Richard F Stratton

Rottweiler in old time

The Rottweiler is considered to be one of the oldest dog breeds. Its origin goes back to Roman times.These dogs were kept as herder or driving dogs.They marched over the Alps with the Roman legions, protecting the humans and driving their cattle.In the region of Rottweil, these dogs met and mixed with the native dogs in a natural crossing.The main task of the Rottweiler now became the driving and guarding of the herds of cattle and the defence of their masters and their property.

This breed acquired its name from the old free city of Rottweil and was known as the Rottweil butcherʼs dogʼ.
The butchers bred this type of dog purely for performance and usefulness.In due course, a first rate watch and driving dog evolved which could also be used as a draught dog.
When, at the beginning of the twentieth century, various breeds were needed for police service, the Rottweiler was amongst those tested.

It soon became evident that the breed was highly suitable forthe tasks set by police service and therefore they were officiallyrecognized as police dogs in 1910. Rottweiler breeders aim at a dog of abundant strength, black
coated with clearly defined rich tan markings, whose powerfulappearance does not lack nobility and which is exceptionally wellsuited to being a companion, service and working dog.

Rottweiler Temperament

Stages of Development and Socialisation

A dog is not a toy, a plaything, an ego trip, or a child substitute. The dog has been the companion of man for thousands of years but he retains all the instinctive behaviour of his wild ancestors. Today with our changing society and subsequent stress we tend to forget that dogs are not humans but a different species. A species that comes from a social structure similar to man and hence can adapt to living with man provided that certain needs are met.

It is vital, if you are to have a happy rewarding relationship with your dog that YOU are the pack leader. A dog sees a weak person as one who is not worthy of respect and he will take over the lead position. We all know dogs that run their various households – the dog wants a walk, the dog want his dinner, the dog does not like you to sit there, the dog does not like Auntie Jessie etc. These dogs have taken the leadership in their households, This may not be a problem. BUT allow a ROTTWEILER to call the tune and you are asking for trouble.

If you are in the habit of allowing the dog to dictate to you, e.g., who sits where. You cannot blame the dog when, if he is pulled off his chair and dragged outside, he challenges your right to demand this action of him. You say "The dog growled at me". Of course he did; you have given him every reason to believe that he is in charge so why shouldn't he challenge a threat to his position.

The size of a Rottweiler coupled with his strength of character will cause problems right from the time you take your puppy home if you do not establish yourself as the pack leader in your household. The dog will be quite happy with what ever position he is allotted. For household harmony that position should be at the bottom of the human pack. Then the dog respects you and all the family. Current problems overseas are mainly caused by lack of understanding of the above concept. The Rottweiler is a wonderful companion / guard, providing he is in the hands of a responsible caring owner who has taken the trouble to investigate the Character of the Breed and to learn about the drives and instincts that all dogs are born with, i.e., inherited drives and behaviour. This is set and cannot be changed by man, only modified for man's use.

Choosing a Rottweiler Breeder

Finding a good breeder is a great way to find the right puppy. A good breeder will match you with the right puppy and will, without question, have done all the health certifications necessary to screen out health problems as much as possible. She is more interested in placing pups in the right homes than making big bucks.

Good breeders will welcome your questions about temperament, health clearances, and what the dogs are like to live with, and come right back at you with questions of their own about what you’re looking for in a dog and what kind of life you can provide for him. A good breeder can tell you about the history of the breed, explain why one puppy is considered pet quality while another is not, and discuss what health problems affect the breed and the steps she takes take to avoid those problems.

Find a breeder who is a member in good standing of the American Rottweiler Club and who has agreed to abide by its list of mandatory practices, which include screening all dogs being bred for genetic diseases, selling only with a written contract, and guaranteeing a home for any dog the breeder sold if the owner becomes unable to keep him.

Ask to see the results of genetic screening tests for a pup’s parents. The American Rottweiler Club requires its member breeders to screen all breeding dogs for hip dysplasia. The clearance should be from either the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) or the University of Pennsylvania (PennHip). ARC also requires breeders to have OFA clearance on breeding dogs’ elbows, as those joints can also be dysplastic. Additionally, breeders must have their dogs’ eyes cleared each year by the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF). Finally, OFA clearance of the parents’ cardiac health is required.

Look for a breeder who will do even more than the required minimum testing. Certification by the American Temperament Test Society (ATT), OFA clearance of the parents’ thyroids, and certification that the parents are free of inherited bleeding disorders like von Willebrand’s disease are all signs of a truly dedicated breeder.

Choose a breeder who is not only willing but insists on being a resource in helping you train and care for your new dog. The ARC has additional guidelineson how to interview and select a Rottweiler breeder.

Avoid breeders who seem interested only in how quickly they can unload a puppy on you and whether your credit card will go through. You should also bear in mind that buying a puppy from a website that offers to ship your dog to you immediately can be a risky venture, as it leaves you no recourse if what you get isn’t exactly what you expected. Put at least as much effort into researching your puppy as you would into choosing a new car or expensive appliance. It will save you money in the long run.

Lots of reputable breeders have websites, so how can you tell who’s good and who’s not? Red flags include puppies always being available, multiple litters on the premises, having your choice of any puppy, and the ability to pay online with a credit card. Quickie online purchases are convenient, but they are almost never associated with reputable breeders.

Whether you’re planning to get your new best friend from a breeder, a pet store, or another source, don’t forget that old adage “let the buyer beware”. Disreputable breeders and facilities that deal with puppy mills can be hard to distinguish from reliable operations. There’s no 100% guaranteed way to make sure you’ll never purchase a sick puppy, but researching the breed (so you know what to expect), checking out the facility (to identify unhealthy conditions or sick animals), and asking the right questions can reduce the chances of heading into a disastrous situation. And don’t forget to ask your veterinarian, who can often refer you to a reputable breeder, breed rescue organization, or other reliable source for healthy puppies. 

The cost of a Rottweiler puppy varies depending on his place of origin, whether he is male or female, what titles his parents have, and whether he is best suited for the show ring or a pet home. Whatever the price, the puppy you buy should have been raised in a clean home environment, from parents with health clearances and conformation (show) and, ideally, working titles to prove that they are good specimens of the breed. Puppies should be temperament tested, vetted, dewormed, and socialized to give them a healthy, confident start in life. 

And before you decide to buy a puppy, consider whether an adult Rottweiler might better suit your needs and lifestyle. Puppies are loads of fun, but they require a lot of time and effort before they grow up to become the dog of your dreams. An adult Rottie may already have some training and will probably be less active, destructive, and demanding than a puppy. With an adult, you know more about what you’re getting in terms of personality and health and you can find adults through breeders or shelters. If you are interested in acquiring an older dog through breeders, ask them about purchasing a retired show dog or if they know of an adult dog who needs a new home. If you want to adopt a dog, read the advice below on how to do that.

The Basics of Rottweiler Grooming

The Rottweiler has what’s called a double coat. The medium-length outer coat is straight, coarse and dense, lying flat on the body. The soft, downy undercoat is present on the neck and thighs, and its thickness depends on whether you live in a cool or warm climate. A Rottie’s coat is shortest on the head, ears, and legs, longest on breeching (the hair on the hind thighs).

The Rottweiler’s coat sheds moderately — in other words, more than you might think — but requires little grooming. Brush him weekly with a rubber hound mitt or soft bristle brush to keep the hair and skin healthy. In spring and fall, he will have a heavy shed, known as “blowing out” the coat and will need to be brushed more frequently to get rid of all the loose hair.

Bathe the Rottie as you desire or only when he gets dirty. With the gentle dog shampoos available now, you can bathe a Rottie weekly if you want without harming his coat.

Clean the ears as needed with a solution recommended by your veterinarian. Don’t use cotton swabs inside the ear; they can push gunk further down into it. Wipe out the ear with a cotton ball, never going deeper than the first knuckle of your finger.

Trim the nails regularly, usually every couple of weeks. They should never be so long that they click on the floor. And don't forget to brush the teeth frequently with a vet-approved pet toothpaste.

What You Need to Know About Rottweiler Health

All dogs have the potential to develop genetic health problems, just as all people have the potential to inherit a particular disease. Run, don’t walk, from any breeder who does not offer a health guarantee on puppies, who tells you that the breed is 100 percent healthy and has no known problems, or who tells you that her puppies are isolated from the main part of the household for health reasons. A reputable breeder will be honest and open about health problems in the breed and the incidence with which they occur in her lines. The Rottweiler is prone to a host of health problems. Here’s a brief rundown on a few conditions you should know about.

Rottweilers are one of the breeds most affected by hip dysplasia, a genetic deformity in which the head of the femur doesn’t fit properly into the hip socket. This condition can range from mild to severe. Severe cases are extremely painful and often require surgery to correct. Even with the surgery, the dog is likely to develop arthritis as he ages. Elbow dysplasia and osteochondrosis of the knee and shoulder also occur in this breed.

Rottweilers can develop progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), cataracts, eyelid deformities, and other vision and eye problems.

Rottweilers can develop heart problems, including cardiomyopathy and subaortic stenosis (SAS), a narrowing of the aorta that carries blood away from the heart. This usually shows up first as a slight heart murmur, but murmurs can often occur in puppies who have no heart problems as adults. SAS can lead to sudden death, even at a young age, so have your dog’s heart checked regularly.

Rottweilers are prone to other conditions including vonWillebrand's disease (an inherited disease that affects blood clotting ability), hypothyroidism, Addison's disease (a disease of the adrenal gland), gastroenteritis, folliculitis, and a fairly high rate of cancer.

Not all of these conditions are detectable in a growing puppy, and it can be hard to predict whether an animal will be free of these maladies, which is why you must find a reputable breeder who is committed to breeding the healthiest animals possible.  They should be able to produce independent certification that the parents of the dog (and grandparents, etc.) have been screened for these defects and deemed healthy for breeding. That’s where health registries come in.

Before individual Rottweilers can be included in the Canine Health Information Center (CHIC) database, the American Rottweiler Club requires them to have a clearance from the Canine Eye Registry Foundation, hip and elbow evaluations from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, and an OFA cardiac (heart) exam. You can search the OFA and CHIC websites yourself to see if a pup’s parents are listed.


If the breeder tells you she doesn’t need to do those tests because she’s never had problems in her lines, her dogs have been vet checked, or any of the other excuses bad breeders have for skimping on the genetic testing of their dogs, walk away immediately.

Careful breeders screen their breeding dogs for genetic disease and breed only the healthiest and best-looking specimens, but sometimes Mother Nature has other ideas and a puppy develops one of these diseases despite good breeding practices. Advances in veterinary medicine mean that in most cases the dogs can still live good lives. If you’re getting a puppy, ask the breeder about the ages of the dogs in her lines and what they died of.

Not every Rottweiler visit to the vet is for a genetic problem. Rotties can develop hot spots on their skin. Bored Rotties can lick themselves to the point of sores called lick granulomas on their front legs. Blown cruciate ligaments are not uncommon.

Rottweilers are sensitive to high temperatures. Never leave one outdoors on a hot day without access to shade and an unlimited supply of fresh water.

Rottweilers are more likely than many breeds to bloat, a condition in which the stomach distends with gas and can twist on itself (called gastric torsion), cutting off blood flow. Bloat and torsion strikes very suddenly, and a dog who was fine one minute can be dead a few hours later. Watch for symptoms like restlessness and pacing, drooling, pale gums, lip licking, trying unsuccessfully to vomit, and signs of pain. Bloat requires immediate veterinary intervention, and surgery is necessary in many cases. Unfortunately, dogs that have bloated can bloat again, so most veterinarians offer a procedure known as gastropexy or "stomach tacking," which anchors the stomach to the body wall to help keep it from twisting in the future. This procedure can also be done as a preventive measure.

Remember that after you’ve taken a new puppy into your home, you have the power to protect him from one of the more common health problems: obesity. The ideal Rottweiler weighs 75 to 110 pounds, but some people breed them to weigh much more, up to 135 pounds. But bigger is not always better. Excess weight puts more pressure on joints and can contribute to the development of hip dysplasia and arthritis. Keeping a Rottweiler at an appropriate weight is one of the easiest ways to extend his life. Make the most of diet and exercise to help ensure a healthier dog.

RottweilerTemperament and Personality

Rottweilers are individuals, and their personalities range from serious and reserved to silly and fun loving. Some are one-person dogs, while others are affectionate even toward nonfamily members. Out of the same litter, one Rottie may have a high amount of drive, leading him to dismantle your living room for lack of anything better to do, while his mellow brother is happy to sit on the sofa with you eating popcorn. Whatever his personality, a proper Rottweiler is more likely to be calm and alert instead of nervous, shy, excitable, or hyperactive.

The Rottweiler is aloof, not in your face, but he will follow you around to ensure your safety. He doesn’t mind being by himself, which under certain circumstances can make him a good choice for people who work during the day. When he is with his family, he is inclined to be loving and sometimes even clownish.

It may surprise you to learn that the Rottie is not innately a guard dog. He is a thinking dog whose first reaction is to step and back and look at a situation before taking action. It takes a high level of training for a Rottweiler to learn to step forward in situations.

It’s important to learn to read the Rottweiler’s behavior. For instance, he is not typically a barker. If a Rottweiler is barking, you should pay attention and go see what has caught his interest.

Do not assume that just because your Rottweiler loves your children that he will love other children as well. That is not usually the case. Play between children and Rotties should always be supervised, especially when neighbor kids are around. If the Rottweiler thinks “his” children are being hurt, even if they’re not, he will step in to protect them.

Rottweilers are territorial and will not permit strangers onto their property or in their home unless their owner welcomes the person. Some Rottweilers will not even let people they know into the house if the owner isn’t there, which can be a problem if you need to have a pet sitter or some other person come in while you are gone.

Start training your Rottweiler puppy the day you bring him home. That little black-and-tan ball of fluff is capable of soaking up everything you can teach him. Do not wait until he is 6 months old to begin training, or you will have a much bigger, more headstrong dog to deal with. If possible, get him into puppy kindergarten class by the time he is 10 to 12 weeks old, and socialize, socialize, socialize. However, be aware that many puppy training classes require certain vaccines (like kennel cough) to be up to date, and many veterinarians recommend limited exposure to other dogs and public places until puppy vaccines (including rabies, distemper and parvovirus) have been completed. In lieu of formal training, you can begin training your puppy at home and socializing him among family and friends until puppy vaccines are completed.

Any dog, no matter how nice, can develop obnoxious levels of barking, digging, counter-surfing, and other undesirable behaviors if he is bored, untrained, or unsupervised. And any dog can be a trial to live with during adolescence. In the case of the Rottweiler, the “teen” years can start at 6 months and continue until the dog is about 3 years old.

Talk to the breeder, describe exactly what you’re looking for in a dog, and ask for assistance in selecting a puppy. Breeders see the puppies daily and can make uncannily accurate recommendations once they know something about your lifestyle and personality.

The perfect Rottweiler doesn’t spring fully formed from the whelping box. He’s a product of his background and breeding. Whatever you want from a Rottie, look for one whose parents have nice personalities and who has been well socialized from early puppyhood.

The History of Rottweilers

The Rottweiler descends from dogs used by the Romans to drive the herds that fed the army as it marched through Europe. Along the way, the Roman dogs bred with local dogs, and in the town of Rottweil, the result was strong dogs used by butchers to drive cattle to market. On the way home, the dogs served as protection, guarding the butcher’s proceeds from robbers. The dogs also pulled carts, delivering meat and milk to customers. With the advent of motorized vehicles, the need for the Rottweiler decreased and the breed nearly disappeared. Fortunately, German dog lovers saved it, and people in other countries began to appreciate the breed for his work ethic and protective nature.

Today, the Rottweiler ranks 11th among the breeds registered by the American Kennel Club. That’s down quite a bit from the 1990s, when he was ranked No. 2 for two years in a row, but that’s just fine with Rottweiler people. They are satisfied to keep the breed as their own special secret.